Original problem is no sub woofer output. Been through this one and recapped it and the common 2 burned 1K (R16/17)
resistors are replaced but the sub is still not responding. Volume control potentiometer is a common issue on these but
the L-R spkrs sound good.
Went by this webpage on the repair:
https://christopherbradshaw.net/The_Project_Bin/klipsch%20promedia%20subwoofer%20repair%20-%20page%201.html
On the schematic there is a sub-relay (sw101) powered by +V_HF line it
maybe is suppose to be +V_LF ? Without the relay coming on looks like the sub is disconnected.
The zeners (D03/04) that give +/- Vcc to the op amps seemed way off so I replaced them and the voltages seem much closer.
Theres also a sub-mute line on p104 to p101. Power supply shows the LF mute relay and interconnect diagram says it
gets fed from the LF amp. What is triggering the mute? I dont see a mute button anyplace.
Sziasztok! Adott egy iEast erősítő, aminek az egyik oldala nem szól… Ezt a jelenséget gondoltam egy kondenzátor okozhatja, ami konkrétan szinte szénné égett… Nem tudom mitől… Ez pótolva lett szépen, de valahogy most sem szól a csatorna. Esetleg valakinek volt hasonló problémája??
Üdvözletem mindenkinek!
Keresem a fentnevezett (DUAL CHANNEL POWER AMPLIFIER PA200) erősítő kapcsolási rajzát,mert nem találom sehol.
Felteszek képet róla nagyon úgy néz ki mintha BEAG lenne de nincs gyártó feltüntetve. Különben a gondom ezzel az erősítővel,(+40V) (-40V) a tápja
A hangszóró kimenetein (4-8-16 ohm)-os ládákat lehet kacsolni a kimeneti feszültség 20V (4ohm)-on de 14V-nál vágja a jelet (torz)!
Ha valaki tudna ebben segíteni azt nagyon meg köszönném!
Mellékelek képeket hátha találkoztatok ezzel a géppel.
Várom megtisztelő válaszotokat.
Üdv:buszosgyuri.
Want to share:
Have downloaded the schematics from this forum to help repair the amplifier of a friend.
Turned out that Sony decided to route the earth through the chassis, even the earth between the various supplies.
When one takes the main board out of the chassis and switches the amp on, there are up to 20 volts difference between the eart (and hence reference) of the pre-amps and the main amps.
Luckily the amp goes into protection but from a design point of view it is not nice to rely on screws and aluminum face plates to conduct up to 0.2 amps of current from one supply to another.
What I did is solder wires to every eart point and connected them on the main board to make it stand alone and not rely on conducting current through the chassis anymore.
Bad design, simple repair but took some digging in the schematics to find out what exactly was going on!