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1988 Ford radio with JBL - E8LF-19B165-AB

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Technotronic
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Well thought I completed this job a few weeks back. They are notorious for
leaky caps, so the entire radio had to be recapped.

Pix of Radio here - [ http://www.amstereo.org/ford-st.jpg ]

Took almost a year because the customer was not ready to pay me full price,
so chopped away at it over time.

Gave it back to him, I was not able to do a bench test because I didnt have
the pinout. He installed it into the car and says its completely dead.

Found some diagrams online and posted them here:
http://www.mediafire.com/folder/kfg508n7eah2y/FORD

I tried the Windstar pinout, and the display lights up but looks like the
display is lighting up randomly. Not all the
lights behind the controls light up, just the dolby one.

So far the 3rd pin up is connected to the chassis and is ground. The other
diagram showing gnd on the 2nd pin is wrong, its not grounded.....
but the other diagram also shows it grounded, so do I need to manually
ground that pin?

Strange he says it was completely dead hooked to his car connections while I
have some kind of power lighting the display. During working on this,
2 ribbon flex cables that were badly corroded developed open pins due to
repeated flexing. I thought this was going to be why the display was showing
junk, but after I replaced them with some flat wiring cables from a junked
out TV, looks like theres still either a problem in the radio, or Im not
applying power correctly.
Theres a tape still in the mechanism, and its not ejecting and the power
button on the front of the radio does nothing when pressed.

Do I need to jumper any pins on the connector to gnd or B+ to get proper power into the radio?
There was lots of corrosion around the leaky caps, and I believe I cleaned it well...however some of it
went on the feed-thru lands. 

Steve Hearns
Technotronic Dimensions [USA]
WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM
 

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zsugori
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bluemoon

Hi Steve,
I think, connection you made is correct. Because this radio is fairly old and uncommon in EU I can try to help you, based on my experience. So I think, after you changed bad caps, the problem is with backup cap, about 0.5F. This cap can produce very uncommon errors like this. Some picture(s) from inside of radio would be nice if attached to post.

best reards
bakó zoltán
blue moon service

ps
sorry about my english

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Technotronic
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Hello - 

Added 2 new photos to that shared folder "FORD".

http://www.mediafire.com/folder/kfg508n7eah2y/FORD

One is the small board with caps on it that folds open with a cable. The one I am working on, the cables eventually started 
cold-working and broke, so I clipped and unsoldered both of them and used a 26 gauge ribbon cable from a TV power supply in its place. I thought this cable was the cause of 
the problems, but the same problems are still there.

The other photo is the main board. The gren caps are Nichicon brand and are the originals Im told go bad and should be all replaced on both boards.

There are 2 or 3 larger caps toward the left side which on the one I am working on, I did not bother replacing as they looked good. The photos I put up just now are from
another radio same model I got in for repair. Its my hopes by studying one versus the other, I can make progress getting them both working, as they reportedly had different
symptoms relating to the bad caps. I already found 1 burned SMD resistor on the other, and was able to determine its 10 ohms , not 33 which the radio I have not worked on is reading
for value.

I'd have to open up the radio that I have repaired and am testing some more to get good photos, and will do that later. One thing I notice is both radios have the same model number and
nearly 100% component populations, save for the newer one which is missing some 68uF caps that were in the other.

I think you may refer to the supercap component which holds memory etc? I'm not sure if its one of the caps I didnt replace, those larger ones but will check. The new radio I have not worked on has signs of those larger caps leaking very badly. I cleaned the corrosion off , but have not yet powered the radio to confirm the problem. The other caps in that radio look
to be still in very good shape, with no signs of leakage, but to do these right, I'm told means entire recapping.

There was a youtube video on these model radios in I think Polish, but either it was removed or I'm not allowed to see any feeds from that part of the world anymore....

 

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Technotronic
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Ok, took photos of the radio I had repaired. Mainboard, the daughter board and the removed tape mechanism:
http://www.mediafire.com/folder/8kg58w3pv8bwg/FORD-REPAIRED

Theres 2 caps on the mainboard picture on the left, one is larger and a smaller one is standing up next to it, they are:
C001 : 2700uF / 16v
C003 390uF / 16v

I didnt bother changing these as I was told the nichicon low profile ones go bad, but I removed and checked them and they are in quite good shape. 

I dont see signs of corroded feed-thrus near the caps I changed. I felt my work quality was good, so was surprised this is not working.

One thing I did notice is on the repaired radio, some caps I didnt replace are square plastic light tan color, and on the other radio
they are using low profile electrolytic types for them. There are also some tantlum caps on the main board near the left side, but 
its so rare I replace a tantlum, I didnt think it worth checking them.

Another tech in one of my groups says the pin labeled "Bat" is 12V all the time and the "ACC" is switched from the ignition also 12V.

So I think I am only applying power to the 12V pin, and not the ACC and its showing some parts of the display lighting up. It seems to me maybe
proper operation means 12V on the batt is for the clock and memory and usually it would mean the clock comes on when you turn the igniton, but 
this is a 1988 design so there may not be a clock.

 

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Technotronic
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UPDATE - 
 

On the recapped radio, I jumpered Bat (pin 1) to Acc (pin 3) , and monitored current from a 1A
12V supply. Drew about 138mA, the display flashes all the segments if I remove and re-apply the power with
the alligator clips.

Pressed the power button several times, nothing.

I went and fed the illum pin (#4) 12V too, no difference, no additional
current drawn.

I unplugged the tape deck to see if theres an issue there, and no
difference.

All thats left is grounding pin #2?

I am grounding the power right now to the chassis of the radio, which is the
same as pin #6, so Im leaving that alone.

Pin 1 is drawing the 138mA, and it seems to be lighting the Dolby buttons
backlight bulb, so that current seems about right for 1 small bulb, but behind the faceplate
theres more bulbs mounted than that one that dont appear to be lighting.

Theres also a board mounted to it and has what looks like a DC-DC converter
module mounted on it, but have not removed it yet for inspection. Its got some caps mounted on it,
and they dont seem to show any signs of leakage from what I can tell.

I'm thinking maybe theres issues with that board.

I may swap in the faceplate from the other radio as a test, but I want to make sure
I'm applying power correctly and not burn anything out.

So far I have not "let the smoke" out of anything, so maybe Im not too bad off......
 

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